Sardinian Exploration
You’ll need 8 days to cross Sardinia from north to south. Three steps are necessary to enjoy each province’s specificities.
The Costa Smeralda #jetset is the second biggest mediterranean island which is surprisingsly discreet.
The ancient Greeks claimed that the Atlantide was located here. For them, the shoreline had been drowned and the villagers had sought refuge in the mountains separated by natural borders.
We naturally felt the need to explore the most beautiful Sardinian lands.
Sardinia from North to South
North and Maddalena
Our trip starts in Corsica, from Bonifacio with a one hour crossing. We arrive in Santa Teresa di Gallura in Sardinia, the island’s natural entrance from Corsica or north Italy. We immediately notice similarities between Corsica and Sardinia, starting with the flags. Sardinia’s has four Moors king’s heads wether turned left or right, wether blindfolded or not as the political message 🙂
In this northern region, marcellooo! stays at the Valle dell’Erica Resort 5* ( dormire link ), first flight here (hotel video link here). A traditional Sardinian resort, calm with several entirely private polished rocks creeks and a furnished space on the big white sand Licciola beach.
From the Valle dell Erica admire a 360° panorama on the Corsicans island ( Lavezzi) and the Maddalena archipelago.
A twenty minutes car ride will bring you to Palau port to enjoy snorkeling and many other activities.
Excursions are possible to visit the seven islands of Maddalena (only two are populated) and about sixty small island famous for their white sand beaches, granit rocks and crystal clear waters.
We stop on Cala Corsara and Soraya. Nearby Budelli’s pink sand beach which you can only admire from the boat. Strictly forbidden to stop on one of Italy’s most protected beaches.
Relaxing on the boat’s deck and we’re totally disconnected and relaxed (don’t forget your sunscreen !).
At night we try the cuppa gallurse, our first taste of the Sardinian cuisine. Between a soup a gratin and lasagnas. A rich dish !
Next the seada a delicious honey flavored cheese ravioli.
To get to the second step we go through Sardinia’s center, the city of Nuoro with a break in Oliena. A small city famous for its typical local red wine : the Cannonau Nepente di Oliena and also for its traditional scenes paintings decorating the houses’s facades. Here starts the hikes to the Supramonte’s abrupt rocks.
If you have more time you can go head to Castelsardo, in the National Parc of Asinara ( northwestern end ) and to to Alghero.
If you wish to cross Sardinia from one end to the other arriving by Santa Teresa di Gallura, rent a car from Autonoleggio Sardinya (link), the only agency ( to this day) allowing you to take your car here and leave it in Cagliari in the south of the island, our last step. If you arrive by Olbia’s airport all the agencies allow you to do so.
West Coast - Cabras & the Sinis
The arrival to Cabras immediately makes you feel like you entered an hispanic origin village. One level houses, colorful facades, patio in inner courtyards and churches, small squares and paved streets which makes you think about Mexico. Same feeling when you enter the Aquae Sinis hotel ( dormire link).
In the front, the large pond of the same name, many sand dunes, swamps and tens of kilometers of pine trees. Ideal spot to observe the wild life and the flamingos. #SardinianCamargue
The very fertile lands offers cereals, olive trees, citruses and vineyards which produce the Vernaccia. A 15C° local wine, with a lot of body, perfect with cheeses and the bottarga*, a local specialty. Salted and dried mullet eggs covered in wax. You can find it grated in many pasta dishes.
In the morning, we head to Tharros, à 15 minutes de Cabras, on the Sinis peninsula. This breathtaking scenery was one of the most important Phoenician and Roman commercial port.
One track of land, two coasts to moor depending on the winds and two tours : the Torre vecchia and the Torre di San Giovanni. Climb to the top of the San Giovanni Torre, contemplate the shades of blues and choose its creek for a bath : west coast : sand and agitated sea, east coast : calm and non profound seas with rocks.
As a backdrop the Roman remains and columns, under the water, the rest of the port which was drowned.. Unusual.
Ten minutes away from Cabras, the small village of Riola Sardo will charm you by its calm and authenticity. Surrounded by beaches and swamps, we choose to stay in an old family house, the Lucrezia hotel (dormire link) and its hacienda atmosphere #crush. We discovered the finocchio* wild fennel liquor and the typical Sardinian liquor, il mirto* myrtle ( other similarity with Corsica; alcoholic maceration of berries).
Cabras and Riola Sardo are really close which allows you to leave your luggages in one or the other and visit the surroundings.
Drive between ten and thirty minutes and you can discover very long and deep blue beaches. Is Arenas ( dunes and pine trees) (google map link ) almost looks like the Atlantic coast.
Is Arutas or Mari Ermi ( our favorite ) are quartz grains beaches which became a local matter. It’s forbidden to fill a plastic bottle of this rare sand and bring it home.
The parking are fee required ( about 2,5€ for two hours).
The West coast gives you a real feeling of freedom. Its vast preserved wild lands, its authentic and diverse influences and its local cuisine genuinely charmed us. If possible we advise you to go Bosa, Oristano and the Piscinas dunes.
The South
Let’s go to the south ! For the beauty of its long crystalline waters beaches, Marcellooo! Finishes its Sardinian adventure in the Chia area ( pronounced Kia, not like the seeds ). Tourism in the form of hotel complex and sea resort has spared the coasts.
Su Giudeu or Monte Cogoni are Caribbean worthy ! Surrounded by hills or pine trees, the small creeks or stretches of sand sometimes face small islands.
Our favorite ? Tuerredda. Let’s take off (video here).
Sunset and aperitivo at the Turredda Beach Club. Try la Ichnusa, the local beer which bottle proudly wears the Sardinian flag.
We have dinner at the Mirage situated on the side of a seafront road. The atmosphere is familial with as much tourists as locals. Safe bet, we enjoy the fresh fish, pizza, antipasti and the must-try specialty : la fregola* little crumb. A ball shaped rolled crust cooked in its sauce or seafood broth. It almost looks like a couscous’s distant cousin.
One small hour away, Cagliari, the region’s capital which is well rehabilitated. The historical quarter of Castello has been rejuvenated : its main streets and churches like the Duomo are beautifully enhanced.
A walk is the best way to admire the Citadel palace, discover its artisan and arrive to the Bastion di Saint Remy. Sumptuous view of the city swamps and the salines.
Other interesting sites that we didn’t get the time to visit : the Sant’ Antioco island, the archeological site of Su Nuraxi ( nuragico period ) and Villasimius ’s long beaches and the south-east end.
Note : beaches are free access and free. If you want to enjoy and a deckchair and an parasol, count around 20€ for two persons. Paying parking almost everywhere.
SARDINIA by MARCELLOOO
Some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean can be found here, from north to south, from La Maddalena to Cagliari.
Marcellooo’s expertise will enable you to:
- to organize a discovery of Sardinia itinerant version, dolce farniente on a paradise beach or catamaran, according to your desires ;
- approach Sardinian culture and its many traditional festivals ;
- enter the heart of the island, discreet and authentic.